
el campo
What a day today was! I got up around 815 to have breakfast: cocido con leche y mani (yerba tea with milk and peanut bits) and some bread with dulce de guayaba (a sweet and tangy fruit jam). And then I dressed in my gym shorts and my Carolina (Go Tar Heels!) t-shirt and vowed to find a place where I could run or walk or do some kind of exercise.
So I headed out down the ruta, which is asphalt. Most of the traffic along our town ruta is just motos, so it feels very safe. However, on the way back into town, I was climbing a hill and coming toward me is a moto with two guys on it carrying some piece of lumber or piping across their bodies, and it’s taking up half the width of the road. Meanwhile I’m picturing myself getting close-lined at 35mph. Have no fear, he was a good driver.
After a shower and lunch of guiso con arroz (rice dish with tomato sauce with peas and beef) with a green salad and fresh carrot juice (!!!!!), I headed over to AMUR to tend the afternoon shift in AMUR’s store. There weren’t too many sales, so I moved my chair outside onto the front patio and read my 501 Spanish Verbs book until going home around 430 because my host mom called to see if I wanted to go…
TO THE CAMPO!!!!
HECK YES! I have been waiting anxiously to go out and see the family farm.
So I come home and there’s a box of 10 baby chicks sitting in the kitchen, and the dog Luna wants to be in the box, bless her heart. We’re going to be moving the chicks to the campo.
Host dad Amado, host mom Ada and I pile into the Peugeot pickup and make our way out of town. The stone-paved empedrado road eventually becomes a winding red dirt road. Little houses fade away and we enter open fields of tall grass with a few scattered palm trees, a fence here and there, a cow grazing.
We turn off the main road, and creep through some fields until we reach the farm. There are cows, chickens, guineas, pigs, dogs. There are fields of pineapple, orange, mandarin orange, mango and banana trees, plus mandioca and beans. The farm is well-kept by my super guapo (hardworking) host dad, and a super guapa lady that lives out on the farm with her family.
We delivered the chickens to their new home where they’ll get 24 hours of light every day.
Afterwards while relaxing over terere, a baby starts crying in the house. And without missing a beat, Amado gets up, and this otherwise very quiet, stoic man picks up the baby and starts oohing and aahing and saying sweet things until he stops crying. It was precious.
Later we say our goodbyes, and I’m carrying the terere gear out to the truck and one of the cows really wants the terere. As in, he gets really close and is very inquisitive about what I have in my hand that he could eat.
Which leads Ada to tell the story of the time that a cow ate Amado’s cell phone!!!! I kid you not. He had left it in the back of the truck one time, couldn’t find it…and then found it a few days later in the field where the cow had ahem…deposited it.
After the trip to the campo, we came home to make dinner–hamburgers. Plus, Ada had purchased a head of broccoli (a relative rarity here) while in Asuncion. She was curious about the vegetable and how to prepare it. Our agreement had been that if she brought it home, I’d fix it. And if the family liked it, she would add it to the repertoire. I steamed it, and served it with butter, lemon juice, salt and a little Paraguayan cheese. Mmm mmm yum. Success.
Tags: AMUR, campo, food, host family, vaca
















I loved your story and all the photos! What a darling picture of your host dad and the baby. A perfect parenting picture of a dear soul. You have won the lottery Emily! You have a lovely family to learn about life in Paraguay. I met Sally Feskins today – granddaughter of Lib White. She is bilingual and leaves in Sept. for Spain to teach for a year. She went to Spain to visit her brother when she was 16. It changed her life. Sally just graduated from college. Please give my love to your host family and extend my deep appreciation for taking care of you!Love you, Mom
You are on an amazing adventure and will make the most of every aspect. Saw John Glenn tonight and he had already seen this post and really enjoyed, as do Mom and I. Great photos, too! Love you. Dad
I have been reading your posts with great interest and a certain degree of envy for your great adventure. Paraguay clearly is a country blessed with great beauty and a warm soul. You obviously fit in well. Love, Mike